FOLEGANDROS

Folegandros, situated between Sikinos and Milos, is one of the most elegant islands in the Cyclades. Its relaxed pace and the overwhelming tranquillity that has resisted mass tourism for decades make it truly unique.

According to mythology, the island was named after Pholegander, son of King Minos. The island’s charm is on full display in its main settlement of Chora, built atop a sheer cliff and widely considered to be the prettiest town in the Cyclades. It is like a scene lifted straight from a fairy tale: white domes and blue details abound, bougainvillea and coloured window shutters wherever you look, winding stone-paved alleyways and the gorgeous shaded square where people gather for relaxation and leisure. Visitors will find the medieval castle with its striking views of the Aegean, a silent witness to the island’s history for whoever decides to explore it. Meanwhile, the walk to the chapel of the Panagia, one of the most photographed churches in the Cyclades, especially at sunset, is a trip unto itself. The island’s second and more agriculturally focused traditional settlement is Ano Meria.

Folegandros’ beaches are equally distinctive—not vast shorelines but small beaches and coves. The most popular beach on the island is Katergo, which is accessible via either footpath or boat. Notably, most of the island is a protected NATURA 2000 habitat.

Cuisine

Simplicity is king in the culinary culture of Folegandros. Visitors should start their culinary journey by sampling the local cheeses. The island’s chloro is eaten plain or as filling in pies, while the local souroto from sheep’s and goat’s milk is a soft local cheese that is used in the preparation of kalasouna (a local spin on cheese pie). Meanwhile, the local manouri cheese presents itself as a distinctive option that is most certainly worth a taste, and myzithra and skliro are never absent from meals.

The island’s speciality is the renowned matsata, handmade pasta served at just about every tavern as an accompaniment to goat, rooster or (less frequently) rabbit in red sauce. Of course, the island’s cuisine wouldn’t be complete without traditional pies filled with cheese or greens, with hand-kneaded phyllo dough, while kalasouna – otherwise known as kremmydenia – is a local favourite. Of the island’s sweet pies, watermelon pie is perhaps the most popular.

How to get there

Folegandros is situated in the southwestern Cyclades and is serviced by ferry from the port of Piraeus.