Athens, the adolescent capital of the West

Dimitris Thomopoulos / Assistant Professor, AUTh – Architectural Engineer

Athens may be old in name, but it is young at heart. While it is often associated with its ancient splendour, its true story after Roman times is rather more humble: it was a small settlement, which existed for centuries in the shadow of Europe. The “rediscovery” of the city by romantic travellers in the early 19th century eventually led to it becoming the capital of the newly liberated Greek state in 1834, when its modern urban history begins.

Experiencing rapid development in the 20th century, Athens became fertile ground for the Modernist Movement. The city’s profile today is largely defined by concrete, the “antiparochi” system, and the human scale of its urban fabric: it is dense, lively, and colourful.

Visitors wishing to experience Modern Athens do not have a long walk on their hands. In Exarcheia, the iconic Blue Condominium dominates with its stark lines and urban finesse, standing in the midst of a truly vibrant neighbourhood. A short distance away, at Pefkakia, a school building designed by the architect Pikionis is an oasis of calm: a modernist building where simplicity, light, and spatial awareness are on full display.

Moving on to Alexandras Avenue, visitors will encounter modern apartment buildings dating from the 30s and the 50s; small, everyday monuments that reflect how Athenian houses have developed. A highlight of this stroll is the confluence of Stournari & Zaimi streets, where the Michailidis condominium stands out thanks to its austere geometry and exceptional use of the plot on which it is built – a true, comprehensive expression of Greek modernism. Capping off things, a climb up Filopappou hill reveals Pikionis’ unique spatial organisation, with its “handmade” trails, one-of-a-kind geometrical shapes in the ground and striking views of the Acropolis, creating an almost poetic backdrop in which nature and architecture seamlessly meld together.

This contemporary heritage has been experiencing a renaissance in interest. For visitors, it is an opportunity to look behind Athens’ classical stereotypes and get a glimpse of a city that is maturing but nevertheless remains vibrant, restless, and inescapably captivating.

The views expressed in this article are the author’s personal opinions and do not reflect the views or opinions of the Ministry of Rural Development and Food.