{"id":21028,"date":"2026-03-23T10:51:05","date_gmt":"2026-03-23T10:51:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/portal.greekfarms.gov.gr\/?p=21028"},"modified":"2026-03-24T09:42:22","modified_gmt":"2026-03-24T09:42:22","slug":"la-cuisine-grecque-a-son-apogee","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/portal.greekfarms.gov.gr\/fr\/la-cuisine-grecque-a-son-apogee\/","title":{"rendered":"La cuisine grecque \u00e0 son apog\u00e9e\u00a0?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>Les nouveaux restaurants sont de plus en plus nombreux \u00e0 apporter dans nos assiettes tradition et m\u00e9moire, travaill\u00e9es \u00e0 partir de mati\u00e8res premi\u00e8res locales. <\/strong><strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Zo\u00ef Parasidi, journaliste<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>R\u00e9cemment, j\u2019ai eu une discussion avec les amis avec lesquels nous avons l\u2019habitude de sortir manger. Nous nous demandions si le fait, pour les jeunes chefs, d\u2019indiquer de mani\u00e8re pr\u00e9cise dans les menus qu\u2019ils \u00e9laborent l\u2019origine de chaque fromage utilis\u00e9s dans leur recette est exag\u00e9r\u00e9 ou non; le fait qu\u2019ils mentionnent, dans leurs interviews, ces petits producteurs et les fermes avec lesquels ils collaborent; si tout cela ne serait pas superflu. Personnellement, je trouve cela utile, et m\u00eame tr\u00e8s utile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>En avril&nbsp;1990, Ilias Petropoulos, chercheur amateur dans le domaine de la culture populaire, \u00e9crivait dans un article intitul\u00e9 \u00ab&nbsp;La fasolada nationale&nbsp;\u00bb que les folkloristes professionnels \u00ab&nbsp;n\u2019ont jamais cherch\u00e9 \u00e0 identifier la v\u00e9ritable cuisine de nos grands-m\u00e8res&nbsp;\u00bb. Il racontait aussi avoir entendu l\u2019expression \u00ab&nbsp;la fasolada est le plat des pauvres&nbsp;\u00bb, ce qu\u2019il qualifiait de \u00ab&nbsp;raccourci simpliste inadmissible&nbsp;\u00bb. Il soulignait encore que \u00ab&nbsp;la cuisine grecque existait bel et bien, mais qu\u2019elle \u00e9tait invisible&nbsp;\u00bb, en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 \u00e9clips\u00e9e par une tendance \u00e0 manifester davantage d\u2019int\u00e9r\u00eat pour les cuisines \u00e9trang\u00e8res, rel\u00e9guant la n\u00f4tre au second plan. Pourtant, tout ce qu\u2019il observait alors a aujourd\u2019hui radicalement chang\u00e9, trente-cinq ans plus tard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Alors qu\u2019autrefois la pr\u00e9sence de plats traditionnels dans des menus gastronomiques \u2014 ou m\u00eame visant des distinctions \u2014 \u00e9tait rare, nous go\u00fbtons aujourd\u2019hui des recettes comme les <em>gemista<\/em>, la <em>hortopita<\/em> ou encore la <em>sfakiani&nbsp;pita<\/em>, m\u00e9tamorphos\u00e9es en petites bouch\u00e9es \u00e9l\u00e9gantes qui en concentrent toute la saveur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dans le m\u00eame temps, les restaurants les plus accomplis de ces derni\u00e8res ann\u00e9es, ceux o\u00f9 il est difficile de trouver une table, innovent autour des recettes grecques les plus famili\u00e8res. On y sert des plats du terroir, rustiques, des plats mijot\u00e9s classiques que l\u2019on ne rencontrait autrefois que dans les tavernes familiales, et les cuisiniers cherchent souvent \u00e0 faire venir des mati\u00e8res premi\u00e8res de leur r\u00e9gion d\u2019origine et \u00e0 mettre en valeur les saveurs de leur enfance. Parfois, ils subliment leurs ingr\u00e9dients, apportent de l\u00e9g\u00e8res modifications aux recettes et les inscrivent dans l\u2019air du temps. La tradition a son charme, mais sa prolongation cr\u00e9ative est tout aussi savoureuse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Quant \u00e0 la <em>fasolada<\/em>, qui \u2014 comme l\u2019\u00e9crivait Ilias Petropoulos \u2014 \u00ab&nbsp;peut sembler un sujet d\u2019\u00e9tude ridicule, mais c\u2019est \u00e0 partir de l\u2019insignifiant que l\u2019on fait surgir l\u2019essentiel, et dans le ridicule que l\u2019on d\u00e9couvre le s\u00e9rieux&nbsp;\u00bb, elle n\u2019est plus seulement servie dans les tavernes: elle figure d\u00e9sormais parmi les plats les plus r\u00e9ussis de certains jeunes cuisiniers tourn\u00e9s vers la tradition, mettant \u00e0 profit leurs connaissances des techniques culinaires aptes \u00e0 sublimer m\u00eame les recettes les plus simples.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Les herbes sauvages, les l\u00e9gumineuses, les pois chiches, le trahana, les haricots verts, les gombos \u2014 tous ces plats que, enfants, nous refusions obstin\u00e9ment de manger et que nous recherchons aujourd\u2019hui dans les menus \u2014 sont revenus et ont retrouv\u00e9 la place qu\u2019ils m\u00e9ritent. M\u00eame ces bons chef qui se sont tourn\u00e9s vers d\u2019autres horizons et proposent des cuisines \u00e9trang\u00e8res savent que l\u2019un des \u00e9l\u00e9ments essentiels de la cuisine d\u2019aujourd\u2019hui est de faire en sorte que les ingr\u00e9dients n\u2019arrivent pas de loin dans leurs cuisines, mais qu\u2019ils soient aussi locaux que possible \u2014 et que cela soit clairement indiqu\u00e9, car leurs h\u00f4tes l\u2019appr\u00e9cient. La plus belle interpr\u00e9tation de la cuisine mexicaine que j\u2019aie go\u00fbt\u00e9e sur le sol grec, je l\u2019ai trouv\u00e9e \u00e0 La&nbsp;Can\u00e9e, r\u00e9alis\u00e9e avec des produits cr\u00e9tois. Et pourquoi pas&nbsp;?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La plus grande tendance que je per\u00e7ois aujourd\u2019hui dans la cuisine est le retour \u00e0 la simplicit\u00e9. Et quoi de plus simple que ces plats qui r\u00e9veillent nos souvenirs&nbsp;? Ces plats que nous mangions autrefois lors du repas dominical en famille et que, d\u00e9sormais, nous n\u2019avons peut-\u00eatre plus toujours le temps de pr\u00e9parer, mais dont nous savons qu\u2019ils nous attendent quelque part, pr\u00e9par\u00e9s avec attention, soin et savoir-faire.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Les nouveaux restaurants sont de plus en plus nombreux \u00e0 apporter dans nos assiettes tradition et m\u00e9moire, travaill\u00e9es \u00e0 partir&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":21012,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"_video_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[802,5299],"tags":[3163],"class_list":["post-21028","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-politismos-fr","category-personnalites","tag-gastronomie"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the 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