{"id":20090,"date":"2026-02-05T16:12:37","date_gmt":"2026-02-05T16:12:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/portal.greekfarms.gov.gr\/?p=20090"},"modified":"2026-02-05T16:19:15","modified_gmt":"2026-02-05T16:19:15","slug":"la-grece-dans-lassiette-une-cuisine-reconfortante-au-pluriel","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/portal.greekfarms.gov.gr\/fr\/la-grece-dans-lassiette-une-cuisine-reconfortante-au-pluriel\/","title":{"rendered":"La Gr\u00e8ce dans l\u2019assiette \u2013 une cuisine r\u00e9confortante au pluriel"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>par Gianna Balafouti, journaliste culinaire<br><br><em>La Gr\u00e8ce dans l\u2019assiette semble dialoguer depuis des d\u00e9cennies avec ce que l\u2019on appelle aujourd\u2019hui les tendances gastronomiques internationales, sans jamais l\u2019avoir cherch\u00e9.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La Gr\u00e8ce dans l\u2019assiette est le r\u00e9sultat de la mani\u00e8re dont ce pays a toujours cuisin\u00e9 pour nourrir ceux qui y vivent et ceux qui y passent. La nourriture servie na\u00eet, chaque fois, de ce qui est disponible, de ce qui r\u00e9siste et de ce qui parvient jusqu\u2019\u00e0 la table \u00e0 chaque saison. C\u2019est pourquoi elle peut parfois sembler simple, sans jamais \u00eatre b\u00e2cl\u00e9e ni pr\u00e9cipit\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>D\u2019ailleurs, la saisonnalit\u00e9 n\u2019a jamais \u00e9t\u00e9 un choix, mais une donn\u00e9e. On ne cuisine pas la m\u00eame chose en hiver, au printemps ou en \u00e9t\u00e9, selon ce que l\u2019on trouve, \u00ab&nbsp;ta vriskoumena&nbsp;\u00bb, comme disaient les anciens. Ce qui est aujourd\u2019hui d\u00e9crit \u00e0 l\u2019international comme <em>seasonal cooking<\/em> a toujours fait partie ici du quotidien, influen\u00e7ant ce que nous mangeons et, en d\u00e9finitive, la mani\u00e8re dont nous vivons nos journ\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dans la m\u00eame assiette cohabite, profond\u00e9ment enracin\u00e9e, la logique du partage. L\u2019invitation, le mets que l\u2019on offre, le mezz\u00e9 pos\u00e9 au centre de la table, \u00ab&nbsp;au cas o\u00f9&nbsp;\u00bb. Des recettes qui ne sont pas con\u00e7ues pour r\u00e9pondre \u00e0 un besoin ou pour conserver, mais pour accueillir l\u2019invit\u00e9 impr\u00e9vu. Ce qui ailleurs se d\u00e9crit comme <em>sharing food<\/em> reste en Gr\u00e8ce un acte \u00e9vident d\u2019hospitalit\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>L\u2019assiette fonctionne souvent comme une carte, et cela tient au fait que la Gr\u00e8ce n\u2019a pas une seule cuisine, pas plus qu\u2019elle n\u2019a un paysage uniforme. La montagne, la mer, les \u00eeles et les plaines fa\u00e7onnent des habitudes diff\u00e9rentes et, par extension, des recettes et des techniques distinctes. Ce qui est aujourd\u2019hui discut\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019international sous le terme de <em>cuisine r\u00e9gionale<\/em> d\u00e9coule ici naturellement du relief et des distances.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Il ne s\u2019agit toutefois pas d\u2019une cuisine fig\u00e9e ni isol\u00e9e. Elle s\u2019est au contraire construite \u00e0 travers les d\u00e9placements de populations, les \u00e9changes, les ajouts et les adaptations. C\u2019est pourquoi l\u2019on parle d\u2019un ensemble de cuisines qui ont appris \u00e0 coexister: les l\u00e9gumineuses avec les \u00e9pices, l\u2019huile d\u2019olive avec le beurre, les viandes avec les herbes sauvages, les fruits de mer avec les p\u00e2tes, les tourtes aux herbes ou \u00e0 ce que l\u2019on r\u00e9colte lors de la cueillette. Ce que l\u2019on qualifie aujourd\u2019hui de multiculturel a \u00e9t\u00e9 en Gr\u00e8ce le produit de l\u2019histoire et de la n\u00e9cessit\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tout cela aboutit \u00e0 une cuisine qui, sans jamais le chercher, agit de mani\u00e8re r\u00e9confortante. C\u2019est une cuisine quotidienne, famili\u00e8re et accessible. Ce que l\u2019on appelle de par le monde <em>comfort food<\/em> demeure ici un mode de vie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>La Gr\u00e8ce dans l\u2019assiette est, en d\u00e9finitive, une mani\u00e8re pragmatique d\u2019organiser la vie autour de la nourriture, afin de couvrir les besoins, de partager les ressources et de laisser la journ\u00e9e se poursuivre. Elle a \u00e9t\u00e9 fa\u00e7onn\u00e9e pour fonctionner, et c\u2019est peut-\u00eatre pour cela qu\u2019elle poss\u00e8de ce don unique de transformer le \u00ab&nbsp;je&nbsp;\u00bb en \u00ab&nbsp;nous&nbsp;\u00bb.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>par Gianna Balafouti, journaliste culinaire La Gr\u00e8ce dans l\u2019assiette semble dialoguer depuis des d\u00e9cennies avec ce que l\u2019on appelle aujourd\u2019hui&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":20080,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"_video_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[802,5299],"tags":[4357,1671],"class_list":["post-20090","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-politismos-fr","category-personnalites","tag-politismos-fr","tag-ellada-fr"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.9 - 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