{"id":15446,"date":"2025-07-09T08:26:07","date_gmt":"2025-07-09T08:26:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/portal.greekfarms.gov.gr\/?p=15446"},"modified":"2026-01-07T10:39:17","modified_gmt":"2026-01-07T10:39:17","slug":"la-sykomaida","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/portal.greekfarms.gov.gr\/fr\/la-sykomaida\/","title":{"rendered":"La sykoma\u00efda"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><em><strong><em><strong>Soultana-Maria Valamoti<\/strong><\/em>, <strong><em>Professor, School of History and Archaeology, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki<\/em><\/strong><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Source de sucres naturels, les figues sont cultiv\u00e9es en Gr\u00e8ce depuis la pr\u00e9histoire. D\u00e8s la p\u00e9riode n\u00e9olithique (VIIe-IVe mill\u00e9naire av. J.-C.), les hommes r\u00e9coltaient, s\u00e9chaient et stockaient les figues pour les consommer tout au long de l\u2019ann\u00e9e, comme l\u2019attestent les accumulations de nombreux fruits sur certains sites pr\u00e9historiques. La civilisation myc\u00e9nienne est \u00e9troitement li\u00e9e \u00e0 la culture du figuier, et les figues \u00e9taient distribu\u00e9es comme ration aux ouvri\u00e8res et aux ouvriers des palais myc\u00e9niens, ainsi qu\u2019offertes dans des rituels religieux.<br><br>Les r\u00e9f\u00e9rences au figuier et aux figues sont nombreuses dans les textes grecs anciens et commencent avec Hom\u00e8re, au VIIIe si\u00e8cle av. J.-C. L\u2019association du figuier et de la vigne \u00e9tait d\u00e9j\u00e0 connue \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque myc\u00e9nienne, comme en t\u00e9moignent les tablettes en lin\u00e9aire B (seconde moiti\u00e9 du IIe mill\u00e9naire av. J.-C.). Il est m\u00eame fait mention de la culture conjointe des deux plantes, le figuier servant de support \u00e0 la vigne pour grimper. On retrouve figuier et vigne ensemble dans les vergers soign\u00e9s des h\u00e9ros mythiques de l\u2019Odyss\u00e9e, comme par exemple celui de La\u00ebrte. Cette association semble se poursuivre \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque historique, puisque, au VIe si\u00e8cle av. J.-C., Hipponax mentionne dans un fragment le figuier qui donne des figues noires comme la s\u0153ur de la vigne.<br><br>Il semble que cette association entre figuier et vigne dans le verger se refl\u00e8te \u00e9galement dans une recette qui combine les figues avec les sous-produits de la vigne, c\u2019est-\u00e0-dire les p\u00e9pins de raisin. Dans cette recette, on rencontre une autre fa\u00e7on de consommer les figues, en dehors de leur consommation en fruits frais ou secs. Selon H\u00e9sychius (VIe si\u00e8cle ap. J.-C.), il existait dans l\u2019Antiquit\u00e9 un mets constitu\u00e9 d\u2019une p\u00e2te de figues et de p\u00e9pins de raisin (<em>gigarta<\/em>) que l\u2019on faisait cuire au four. Le nom de ce mets \u00e9tait<em> l\u00f4lon<\/em>, que mentionne \u00e9galement Pollux dans son Onomasticon (IIe si\u00e8cle ap. J.-C.). D\u2019apr\u00e8s H\u00e9sychios, ce mets \u00e9tait donn\u00e9 aux enfants comme nourriture \u2014 on peut supposer qu\u2019il leur plaisait beaucoup en raison de son go\u00fbt sucr\u00e9, peut-\u00eatre une version antique, bien plus saine, de la friandise d\u2019enfance que nous appelons aujourd\u2019hui \u00ab&nbsp;biscuit fourr\u00e9 au loukoum&nbsp;\u00bb. Le comique Cratinos (Ve si\u00e8cle av. J.-C.) fait r\u00e9f\u00e9rence \u00e0 une <em>ischada kopti<\/em> (figue s\u00e8che coup\u00e9e), ce qui semble d\u00e9signer des figues s\u00e8ches broy\u00e9es, et qui rappelle la sykoma\u00efda actuelle, autre friandise \u00e0 base de figues. Une recette d\u00e9taill\u00e9e nous est transmise par l\u2019auteur latin Columelle (Ier si\u00e8cle ap. J.-C.), dans son trait\u00e9 De re rustica. Il nous apprend que des figues m\u00fbres, ramass\u00e9es puis \u00e9tal\u00e9es quelques jours au soleil, \u00e9taient r\u00e9duites en p\u00e2te en les foulant aux pieds soigneusement lav\u00e9s; ensuite, m\u00e9lang\u00e9es \u00e0 du s\u00e9same grill\u00e9, de l\u2019anis, des graines de cumin et de fenouil, elles \u00e9taient fa\u00e7onn\u00e9es en petits palets, envelopp\u00e9s dans des feuilles de figuier, ficel\u00e9s pour ne pas s\u2019ouvrir, \u00e9tal\u00e9s sur des claies pour s\u00e9cher au soleil puis conserv\u00e9s dans des r\u00e9cipients ferm\u00e9s.<br><br>La production de figues sucr\u00e9es se poursuit aujourd\u2019hui en Gr\u00e8ce et, dans diff\u00e9rentes r\u00e9gions comme les \u00eeles Ioniennes, la Cr\u00e8te et ailleurs, on trouve une version de cette \u00ab&nbsp;p\u00e2te&nbsp;\u00bb de figues appel\u00e9e sykoma\u00efda. Cette recette ressemble au <em>l\u00f4lon<\/em> de l\u2019Antiquit\u00e9&nbsp;: des figues fra\u00eechement s\u00e9ch\u00e9es sont r\u00e9duites en p\u00e2te, exactement comme dans l\u2019Antiquit\u00e9, mais au lieu de p\u00e9pins de raisin, la sykoma\u00efda moderne est agr\u00e9ment\u00e9e d\u2019\u00e9pices et, dans certaines r\u00e9gions, de s\u00e9same. La version actuelle de la sykoma\u00efda se rapproche beaucoup de la recette des temps romains, jusque dans l\u2019enveloppement des palets de figues dans des feuilles de figuier, comme on l\u2019observe \u00e0 Corfou.<br><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Soultana-Maria Valamoti, Professor, School of History and Archaeology, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki Source de sucres naturels, les figues sont cultiv\u00e9es&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":12409,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"_video_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[759,5285],"tags":[1671,5365],"class_list":["post-15446","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-istoria-fr","category-saveurs-anciennes","tag-ellada-fr","tag-references-historiques"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin 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