{"id":14245,"date":"2025-07-23T15:10:18","date_gmt":"2025-07-23T15:10:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/portal.greekfarms.gov.gr\/?p=14245"},"modified":"2025-12-22T20:20:58","modified_gmt":"2025-12-22T20:20:58","slug":"pates-frites","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/portal.greekfarms.gov.gr\/fr\/pates-frites\/","title":{"rendered":"P\u00e2tes frites"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong><em>Soulta Maria Valamoti \u2013 <strong><em>Professor, School of History and Archaeology, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki<\/em><\/strong><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Les c\u00e9r\u00e9ales cultiv\u00e9es en Gr\u00e8ce depuis le VIIe mill\u00e9naire avant J.-C. constituaient un \u00e9l\u00e9ment essentiel de l&rsquo;alimentation et la farine obtenue \u00e0 partir de celles-ci, de bl\u00e9 ou d&rsquo;orge, moulue dans des moulins \u00e0 pierre, pouvait \u00eatre transform\u00e9e en de nombreuses recettes diff\u00e9rentes. Certaines recettes n\u00e9cessitaient de faire frire la p\u00e2te dans de l&rsquo;huile, g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement dans un r\u00e9cipient semblable \u00e0 une po\u00eale moderne. L&rsquo;une des recettes de p\u00e2te frite que l&rsquo;on trouve dans les textes anciens s&rsquo;appelait \u00ab engris \u00bb et la plus ancienne r\u00e9f\u00e9rence \u00e0 ce mot remonte d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00e9poque archa\u00efque. Cette r\u00e9f\u00e9rence est faite par Ath\u00e9n\u00e9e, qui cite un vers du po\u00e8te du VIIe si\u00e8cle av. J.-C. St\u00e9sichore. Ath\u00e9n\u00e9e nous informe m\u00eame que l&rsquo;engris \u00e9tait une p\u00e2tisserie \u00e0 base de p\u00e2te bouillie dans l&rsquo;huile puis recouverte de miel. Aristophane et d&rsquo;autres po\u00e8tes comiques font r\u00e9f\u00e9rence aux vendeuses sp\u00e9cialis\u00e9es dans ces p\u00e2tisseries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Une autre forme de p\u00e2te liquide qui se solidifie \u00e0 la cuisson \u00e9tait connue dans la Gr\u00e8ce antique sous le nom d&rsquo;itrion. Cette pr\u00e9paration est mentionn\u00e9e dans des textes anciens d\u00e8s le VIIe si\u00e8cle avant J.-C. dans les po\u00e8mes de Solon et d&rsquo;Anacr\u00e9on. Ce dernier, dans un extrait de son po\u00e8me, mentionne qu&rsquo;il a mang\u00e9 pour le petit-d\u00e9jeuner un petit morceau qu&rsquo;il a cass\u00e9 d&rsquo;un <em>itrion<\/em>. Cette pr\u00e9paration est mentionn\u00e9e par quelques autres auteurs, mais on ne sait pas exactement comment la p\u00e2te \u00e9tait cuite. Une comparaison dans les vers de Matrona de Pitane peut \u00eatre interpr\u00e9t\u00e9e comme une indication que les itrions \u00e9taient de couleur dor\u00e9e. Le fait que les itrions \u00e9taient pr\u00e9par\u00e9s \u00e0 partir d&rsquo;une p\u00e2te liquide qui se solidifiait \u00e0 la cuisson nous est rapport\u00e9 par Galien et concerne des pr\u00e9parations beaucoup plus tardives, datant du IIe si\u00e8cle apr\u00e8s J.-C., connues sous le nom de ryimata et lagana. La couleur dor\u00e9e suppos\u00e9e de ces pr\u00e9parations \u00e9tait-elle li\u00e9e \u00e0 la cuisson de la p\u00e2te liquide dans l&rsquo;huile ? Nous ne le saurons pas avec certitude.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Aujourd&rsquo;hui, la cuisine grecque propose une grande vari\u00e9t\u00e9 de pr\u00e9parations et de p\u00e2tisseries \u00e0 base d&rsquo;une p\u00e2te liquide, principalement compos\u00e9e de farine de bl\u00e9 et d&rsquo;eau, frite dans l&rsquo;huile. Les enkridas des anciens ressemblent beaucoup aux loukoumades (beignets au miel) actuels, pr\u00e9par\u00e9s \u00e0 partir d&rsquo;une p\u00e2te liquide frite dans une grande quantit\u00e9 d&rsquo;huile, comme si elle bouillait. Les xerotigana, les diples et les otia que l&rsquo;on trouve dans diff\u00e9rentes r\u00e9gions de Gr\u00e8ce sont pr\u00e9par\u00e9s \u00e0 partir d&rsquo;une p\u00e2te qui est d&rsquo;abord \u00e9tal\u00e9e en feuille, puis enroul\u00e9e de mani\u00e8re \u00e9labor\u00e9e avant ou pendant la friture dans l&rsquo;huile. L&rsquo;ajout de miel rapproche ces pr\u00e9parations des p\u00e2tisseries de l&rsquo;Antiquit\u00e9. Quant aux lalangias du Magne, ou lalangites de la Gr\u00e8ce continentale, ils sont certainement croustillants et dor\u00e9s, comme nous le laisse imaginer la po\u00e9sie antique.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Soulta Maria Valamoti \u2013 Professor, School of History and Archaeology, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki Les c\u00e9r\u00e9ales cultiv\u00e9es en Gr\u00e8ce depuis&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":14016,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"_video_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[759,5285],"tags":[1671,5365],"class_list":["post-14245","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-istoria-fr","category-saveurs-anciennes","tag-ellada-fr","tag-references-historiques"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.9 - 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