{"id":13254,"date":"2025-06-16T10:04:12","date_gmt":"2025-06-16T10:04:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/portal.greekfarms.gov.gr\/main\/?p=13254"},"modified":"2025-12-23T09:34:28","modified_gmt":"2025-12-23T09:34:28","slug":"salade-de-gesses-les-kamplies-ou-papoules-de-crete-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/portal.greekfarms.gov.gr\/fr\/salade-de-gesses-les-kamplies-ou-papoules-de-crete-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Salade de gesses – les kampli\u00e8s ou papoules de Cr\u00e8te"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Soultana-Maria Valamoti, Professor, School of History and Archaeology, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les l\u00e9gumineuses, source principale de prot\u00e9ines pour les soci\u00e9t\u00e9s pr\u00e9historiques de Gr\u00e8ce, comme pour celles des temps historiques, \u00e9taient cultiv\u00e9es dans de nombreuses vari\u00e9t\u00e9s d’esp\u00e8ces, comme le montrent les restes de graines d’ol\u00e9agineux br\u00fbl\u00e9s trouv\u00e9s dans des sites arch\u00e9ologiques et les textes grecs anciens. \u00c0 la fin de l’\u00e2ge du bronze, les l\u00e9gumineuses sont absentes des tablettes de la civilisation lin\u00e9aire B, probablement parce que le pouvoir central des palais myc\u00e9niens ne s’int\u00e9ressait qu’\u00e0 des cultures tr\u00e8s sp\u00e9cifiques telles que les c\u00e9r\u00e9ales, du lin et des arbres fruitiers tels que les figuiers, les vignes et les oliviers. Cependant, m\u00eame \u00e0 cette \u00e9poque, les gens cultivaient une grande vari\u00e9t\u00e9 de l\u00e9gumineuses, comme le montrent les restes carbonis\u00e9s de l\u00e9gumineuses trouv\u00e9s par exemple \u00e0 Cnossos. Peut-\u00eatre que le lien entre les l\u00e9gumineuses et les repas quotidiens des gens ordinaires que nous trouvons dans les textes grecs anciens trouve son origine dans l’organisation de la production agricole et de l’\u00e9conomie des palais myc\u00e9niens et dans les conceptions de l’\u00e9poque sur ce qui constituait un produit agricole important.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les l\u00e9gumineuses \u00e9taient g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement consomm\u00e9es sous forme de soupe ou de bouillie, comme en t\u00e9moignent les textes anciens, bien que l’on trouve plus rarement des r\u00e9f\u00e9rences \u00e0 la mouture des l\u00e9gumineuses et \u00e0 leur utilisation pour la pr\u00e9paration du pain ou des graines grill\u00e9es pour les consommer comme en-cas, les trag\u00e8mes<\/em> des anciens Grecs. Parfois, les graines \u00e9taient m\u00eame consomm\u00e9es tendres et sucr\u00e9es, avant leur maturation, l\u00e0 encore en accompagnement du vin, sous forme de trag\u00e8mes<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Une r\u00e9f\u00e9rence de Th\u00e9ophraste, qui v\u00e9cut entre le IVe et le IIIe si\u00e8cle avant J.-C., dans son ouvrage \u00ab Causes des plantes \u00bb, pr\u00e9sente un int\u00e9r\u00eat particulier quant \u00e0 la mani\u00e8re dont les l\u00e9gumineuses \u00e9taient consomm\u00e9es. Dans ce livre, on lit que les tendres pousses de l\u2019ocre<\/em>, une l\u00e9gumineuse qui correspond probablement \u00e0 l’actuel afko<\/em> de Limnos, de l’esp\u00e8ce Lathyrus ochrus<\/em>, \u00e9taient consomm\u00e9es comme aliment. Des si\u00e8cles apr\u00e8s l’\u00e9poque de Th\u00e9ophraste, on retrouve cette ancienne pratique alimentaire sur l’\u00eele de Cr\u00e8te o\u00f9 cette gesse, la Lathyrus ochrus<\/em>, est sem\u00e9e dans les jardins pour \u00eatre consomm\u00e9 en salade, ses tendres pousses \u00e9tant servies \u00e0 table saupoudr\u00e9es de gros sel et accompagn\u00e9es d’un verre de raki. Ce plat est aujourd’hui connu sous le nom de \u00ab kampli\u00e8s \u00bb ou \u00ab papoules \u00bb. Le mot \u00ab kampli\u00e8s \u00bb de la recette cr\u00e9toise fait-il r\u00e9f\u00e9rence \u00e0 l’ancien mot \u00ab kavlos \u00bb, qui d\u00e9signait autrefois les tendres pousses ? Ce plat est tellement appr\u00e9ci\u00e9 des Cr\u00e9tois que, dans un pass\u00e9 r\u00e9cent, lorsque la culture de l\u2019afkos (Lathyrus ochrus<\/em>) \u00e9tait tr\u00e8s r\u00e9pandue \u00e0 Limnos, les graines \u00e9taient export\u00e9es par bateau vers la Cr\u00e8te afin que les Cr\u00e9tois puissent le semer pour manger ces gesses en salade : un plat simple, de saison, avec une tradition s\u00e9culaire et des racines dans l’Antiquit\u00e9, voire plus anciennes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Image 1. Pousses de gesses servies (ochrus, Lathyrus ochrus) (Photo de Niki Saridaki, tir\u00e9e du livre Food Crops in Ancient Greek Cuisine : an archaeobotanical and textual study, Valamoti, Fyntikoglou, Symponis 2022, University Studio Press).<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Soultana-Maria Valamoti, Professor, School of History and Archaeology, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki Les l\u00e9gumineuses, source principale de prot\u00e9ines pour les…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":14039,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"_video_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[759,5285],"tags":[3163,1671,3162],"class_list":["post-13254","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-istoria-fr","category-saveurs-anciennes","tag-gastronomie","tag-ellada-fr","tag-istoria-fr"],"yoast_head":"\nSalade de gesses - les kampli\u00e8s ou papoules de Cr\u00e8te - Agriculture invers\u00e9e<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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