{"id":13160,"date":"2025-06-16T08:56:41","date_gmt":"2025-06-16T08:56:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/portal.greekfarms.gov.gr\/main\/?p=13160"},"modified":"2025-12-22T20:38:02","modified_gmt":"2025-12-22T20:38:02","slug":"lochros-la-gesse-de-legee","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/portal.greekfarms.gov.gr\/fr\/lochros-la-gesse-de-legee\/","title":{"rendered":"L\u2019ochros, la gesse de l\u2019\u00c9g\u00e9e"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Image 1 : Graines d’afkos enti\u00e8res et broy\u00e9es dans un moulin \u00e0 main (Photo S.M. Valamoti, tir\u00e9e du livre Food Crops in Ancient Greek Cuisine : an archaeobotanical and textual study, Valamoti, Fyntikoglou, Symponis 2022, University Studio Press).<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soultana-Maria Valamoti, Professor, School of History and Archaeology, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les l\u00e9gumineuses sont cultiv\u00e9es en Gr\u00e8ce depuis 9 000 ans, depuis l’apparition des premi\u00e8res soci\u00e9t\u00e9s agricoles et pastorales dans notre r\u00e9gion, la plus ancienne dans toute l’Europe. Elles font partie int\u00e9grante de l’alimentation traditionnelle en Gr\u00e8ce, comme cela devait \u00eatre le cas dans la pr\u00e9histoire et l’Antiquit\u00e9, car elles sont une source pr\u00e9cieuse de prot\u00e9ines v\u00e9g\u00e9tales. Associ\u00e9es aux c\u00e9r\u00e9ales, elles constituent une base alimentaire \u00e9quilibr\u00e9e et saine pour l’homme. Outre les lentilles, la gesse (Lathyrus sativus<\/em>) et les petits pois, que l’on trouve depuis le VIIe mill\u00e9naire avant J.-C., une esp\u00e8ce de gesse appara\u00eet \u00e0 l’\u00e2ge du bronze dans des sites pr\u00e9historiques tels que Akrotiri \u00e0 Santorin et Knossos en Cr\u00e8te. Il s’agit de l’esp\u00e8ce Lathyrus ochrus<\/em>, qui est aujourd’hui cultiv\u00e9e \u00e0 Limnos sous le nom d’afkos<\/em>. Ses graines carbonis\u00e9es, qui ressemblent beaucoup \u00e0 celles des petits pois, ont \u00e9t\u00e9 trouv\u00e9es en grande quantit\u00e9 \u00e0 Knossos (Gypsades).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bien qu’il ne soit pas facile d’identifier un mot ancien avec une esp\u00e8ce v\u00e9g\u00e9tale sp\u00e9cifique, dans le cas du Lathyrus ochrus<\/em>, il est tr\u00e8s probable que l’esp\u00e8ce corresponde au mot ancien \u00ab ochros<\/em> \u00bb (ocre) qui fait r\u00e9f\u00e9rence \u00e0 la couleur jaune des fleurs de l’esp\u00e8ce. La premi\u00e8re mention se trouve dans les textes d\u2019Hippocrate (Ve-IVe si\u00e8cle av. J.-C.), dans une comparaison avec d’autres l\u00e9gumineuses consid\u00e9r\u00e9es comme moins digestes. \u00c0 partir du IVe si\u00e8cle, ce l\u00e9gume est mentionn\u00e9 dans plusieurs extraits de com\u00e9dies antiques, par des po\u00e8tes tels qu’Alexis, Anaxandrid\u00e8s et Antiphane. Dans les vers de ces po\u00e8tes, nous voyons que l’ochros<\/em> figurait dans les listes d’aliments. Dans la r\u00e9f\u00e9rence \u00e0 l’ochros<\/em> faite par Alexis, il semble qu’il \u00e9tait consid\u00e9r\u00e9 comme un aliment pour les familles pauvres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les fa\u00e7ons de consommer l’ochro<\/em>s dans la Gr\u00e8ce antique \u00e9taient nombreuses et il est surprenant de constater que des modes de consommation similaires de la gesse se retrouvent encore aujourd’hui dans la Gr\u00e8ce rurale. Bien que les textes anciens ne fassent pas sp\u00e9cifiquement r\u00e9f\u00e9rence \u00e0 la bouillie jaune \u00e0 base d’ochros<\/em>, c’est-\u00e0-dire ce que nous appellerions aujourd’hui la fava (pur\u00e9e de pois cass\u00e9s), cette bouillie de l\u00e9gumineuses de couleur jaune (l\u00e9cithe) \u00e9tait connue dans la Gr\u00e8ce antique, comme nous l’apprend le philosophe antique du IVe si\u00e8cle av. J.-C. Phainia. L’ochros<\/em> a \u00e9galement des cotyl\u00e9dons jaunes qui pouvaient \u00eatre cuits en bouillie de couleur correspondante, sous la forme de la fava que nous connaissons. Ph\u00e9n\u00e9e mentionne \u00e9galement que l’ochros<\/em> pouvait \u00eatre consomm\u00e9 en ap\u00e9ritif lorsqu’il \u00e9tait encore vert, c’est-\u00e0-dire lorsque les graines sont tendres et sucr\u00e9es. Il ajoute que lorsque l’ochros<\/em> \u00e9tait m\u00fbr et que les graines \u00e9taient s\u00e8ches, celles-ci \u00e9taient consomm\u00e9es grill\u00e9es ou bouillies. Enfin, Th\u00e9ophraste mentionne les jeunes pousses tendres de la plante comme un mets de saison. Cela renvoie \u00e0 la pratique gastronomique saisonni\u00e8re en Cr\u00e8te qui consistait \u00e0 consommer l’ochros<\/em> de la m\u00eame mani\u00e8re, appelant aujourd’hui ce mezz\u00e9 \u00ab papoules<\/em> \u00bb, d’apr\u00e8s les tendres pousses de l’ochros<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Image 2 : Afkos cuisin\u00e9 par Mme Sofi Hapsi, Limnos, juillet 2011 (Photo S.M. Valamoti, tir\u00e9e du livre S.M. Valamoti 2023, Plant Foods of Greece, University of Alabama Press). (si vous pr\u00e9f\u00e9rez l’autre image, avec l’assiette, il s’agit du livre Food Crops, photographe et cuisini\u00e8re S.M. Valamoti)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Image 1 : Graines d’afkos enti\u00e8res et broy\u00e9es dans un moulin \u00e0 main (Photo S.M. 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